I would have much preferred to have chosen a different subject for this exercise, having spent the past week or so starting at huge rhododendrons. However, I understood the importance of drawing the same object again so as to experiment with different media and ascertain what materials worked best and showed it in its best light.
Due to having quite stiff and overworked fingers from undertaking the large A2 drawing (this runs in the family…), I decided to take only one aspect of my subject – namely, the rhododendron blooms – and test different materials together, drawing only this part of the plant and on one A3 sketchbook page so that all my notes were together. I worked intuitively, selecting different materials for their colour more than anything else. The first drawing, on the left, has a light layer of coloured pencils that were then overlayed with thick impasto marks made by oil pastels. The pink oil pastel especially was the perfect colour for the petals, and I wished I had had this colour of pencil when previously working on my large drawing. I combined this colour with dashes of purple and red to suggest shadow and texture, and used the same technique on the leaves whereby I laid down the lighter colours i.e green, then another layer of dark colour i.e purple, to give a similar shadow effect as can be seen in my coloured pencil drawing. Finally, to suggest a few finer details, I selected red, yellow and green felt tip pens and used these to roughly ‘scratch’ across the paper, trying carefully not to make the marks too thick and bold which could easily detract from the rest of the drawing. The whole sketch took around five minutes – I worked rapidly around the drawing adding layers without planning in too much detail – and I really enjoyed the spontaneity of it.
The second sketch – on the right – once again took just under five minutes, but this time I felt brave and decided to use diluted Winsor and Newton inks combined with ballpoint pen and coloured pencils. The rough outline of the rhododendron was drawn first with ballpoint pen, followed by very watered-down washes of ink applied with a water brush pen. The paper buckled and bobbled somewhat, but I loved the fact that I could achieve pastel-like hues that aren’t normally seen in this plant. I only had three colours of ink therefore my palette was a little restricted, but this was fine as I then proceeded to shade over the inks with coloured pencils to widen the palette slightly and to add depth and tone. This sketch has a more illustrative appearance to it but I rather like the unique, ethereal effect that I have produced without having planned the sketch in detail beforehand.
I would consider using both of these techniques in future works, however the coloured ink and pencil combination is perhaps my favourite due to the stunning colour combinations that can be achieved.
Check and Log
- How will your experiments with negative space help your observational drawing in future? I have certainly become more aware of negative space, and am conscious that I now compare these spaces to ascertain proportions in a drawing rather than just the shapes of the actual object. I also feel it is a less fiddly, ‘precious’ way to draw as the focus is no longer on drawing every fiddly little detail of the main subject. Essentially, it is drawing a series of interesting ‘shapes’ that form a whole, and I’d like to have the opportunity to do more negative space drawing.
- What techniques did you use to ensure you drew your plants in proportion? My usual technique for this – especially when drawing on a large scale such as A2 – is to flick my eyes back and forwards, constantly measuring up one aspect of the subject with another. I would compare a leaf with one nearby, but then also one further away to check that positioning and alignment as a whole was correct.
- How did you achieve an effect of three-dimensional space in your drawings? To ensure I have the proper balance of light and tone, I use the ‘eyes half closed’ technique to ascertain where the lightest lights and darkest shadows are. I continue to use this technique throughout the drawing, correcting as I go. I will deepen the shadows by adding more layers of dark colour, and any areas that need to be lighter are picked out with a putty rubber. Once the drawing is complete, I will go back over the entire piece and correct and imbalances. Also, I try to keep objects in the foreground more detailed than those in the background to add a sense of depth.